“Manhattan, with its towering temples of cured meat and pickles, is the spiritual home of the Jewish delicatessen… The institution has lately been revived by chic interpretations around the city. But at Liebman’s Kosher Delicatessen, on West 235th Street in the Bronx, where they’ve been slinging pastrami and brisket for more than six decades, no one seems to care much about New York’s deli resurgence, or think that it needed one in the first place….”